The Gipsy Hill Drifter east coast IPA recipe!

Drifter East Coast IPA recipe

East coast IPA has swept across the world as hopheads like you and me fall for its hugely fruitiness, soft palate and low bitterness. It only takes one to convince you this style, and the methods employed, has the power to change brewing.

Since trying Heady Topper I have been obsessed with the idea of using fruity yeast esters to back up the big citrus notes of modern American hops. It suddenly dawned on me that while letting the hops shine is admirable, some yeasts have esters that can complement rather than distract the palate. I found a kindred spirit in the awesome Sam from Gipsy Hill brewery and, along with his head brewer Simon, decided to give the style a go over the pond here in the UK. As you can tell from the video of the brewday, we learnt a lot very quickly…


The concept of the east coast IPA revolves around three things – a wheat-based malt bill, an estery yeast like British ale or Conan, and a focus on dry hopping. Together these factors make for a hugely fruity, full-bodied IPA with a (stylistically) very low bitterness of around 30IBU.

But that’s not all – the brewers who invented this style have pioneered a new way of dry hopping. Rather than waiting for the fermentation and sediment to subside and adding your hops, brewers like Treehouse, Trillium, Other Half and the Alchemist have added their hops within the first few days of fermentation in the hope that the hop oils will stay in suspension with the yeast and wheat proteins to infuse the cloudy beer with all the esters and hoppiness available.

The jury is still out on whether this works, but it’s undeniable that these yeasty IPAs are absurdly fruity. It’s partly down to the obsession most brewers have with fruity fruit hops like El Dorado and mosaic, but also because of the new techniques employed. Below is the recipe we used for our brewday, including all the tweaks we made after the first version to make the most of the hops. Our first version lacked a little aroma and was too thin. Version two, which the recipe recipe is based on, is quite the opposite. Enjoy!

Ingredients per litre

Malts
Low colour pale 170g (6oz)
Cara gold 20g (0.7oz)
Flaked oats 52g (1.8oz)
Flaked wheat 30g (1oz)
Torrified wheat 10g (0.3oz)
Wheat malt 50g (1.8oz)

Sugars
1ml  golden syrup
0.5ml treacle

Boil hops
Pilgrim hops 0.3g (0.1oz)
El Dorado 2g (0.07oz)
Azacca 1.2g (0.04oz)
Equinox 1g (0.035oz)

Yeast
0.7g British ale or conan-style yeast (0.24oz)

Dry hop charges
4x 1g of El Dorado, Azacca & Equinox (4 x 0.035oz)

For a 30l brew like ours:

30 litre total water, 16.5 litre mash, 13.5 litre sparge – yields 20l for bottling.

Malts
Low colour pale 5.2kg (183oz)
Cara gold 600g (21oz)
Flaked oats 1.55kg (55oz)
Flaked wheat 900g (32oz)
Torrified wheat 300g (10.5oz)
Wheat malt 1.55kg (55oz)

Sugars
2 tablespoons golden syrup (30ml)
1 tablespoon treacle (15ml)

Boil hops
Pilgrim hops 9g (0.32oz)
El Dorado 61g (2.2oz)
Azacca 36g (1.3oz)
Equinox 30g (1oz)

Yeast
20g British ale or conan-style yeast (0.7oz)

Dry hops
4x 30g of El Dorado, Azacca & Equinox (4 x 1oz)

Method

OG: 1.068 | FG: 1.015

Mash at a temperature of 68ºC/155ºF. Mash in and stir for one hour.

Sparge at 75ºC/168ºF, then add the pilgrim and syrups.

Bring to the boil and boil for one hour.

Reduce to 90ºC/195ºF checking gravity and using cold water to liquor back if necessary. Then add the remaining boil hops. Leave to infuse for 30 minutes.

Chill down to 22ºC/70ºF. Add the first dry-hop charge to the fermentor then pour the beer on top.

Pitch the yeast and ferment at 22ºC/70ºF.

Add a dry-hop charge at 50% fermented, 75% fermented and just before cold crashing for at least 24 hours.

104 thoughts on “The Gipsy Hill Drifter east coast IPA recipe!

  1. Mmm metric. A language us Americans barely understand.

    Could you do a Yankee conversion for this recipe?

  2. IS IT A MISTAKE? FLAKED OATS 1.55g?

    Malts
    Low colour pale 5.2kg
    Cara gold 600g
    Flaked oats 1.55g
    Flaked wheat 900g
    Torrified wheat 300g
    Wheat malt 1.55kg

  3. Are you going to do primary & rack to a secondary, also how do you plan to get the hop debris out? cold crashing only?

    • Nope straight from primary to bottle. Cold crashing for 24 hours should drop out the hops but we want all the sediment in the beer so it’s cloudy and soft!

    • We finished with about 18l actually, a little less than we were expecting

  4. My guess about 20ish Trub, grain absorbtion, boil off usually for 20 litres I have about 33l water in total so maybe a little under

  5. ordered first part from UK.. .living in Germany means I have trouble getting the more niche hops, and torrified wheat. second part I can get locally. I am not using Oats as every time I put them in a brew I get this horrible acidic off flavour.. maybe someone can tell me why. Probably also wont put in Syrup/Treacle reinheitsgebot and all that.

  6. Thanks for the recipe! I will try to brew a little dryer version of this beer, if you guys don’t mind. And maybe I´ll need to change a few things in the recipe, not sure if I can find all everything here in Brazil.

  7. Where did you order the Equinox and Eldorado I cant seem to find anywhere in the UK that has them in stock?
    Good to know someone is getting the same boil off rates that I do. every time i have followed a recipe its called for several litres less total water than I end up using.

  8. Hi guys,

    Nice work guys! It’s look like Amazing, I can feel the smell here. 🙂
    I brew beer over 3 years, I have the Speidels Braumeister “very similar of Grain Father method…”
    I’m in doubt in two things, the style that I think is North East IPA and for BIAB method its too much cereal flakes, causing total blockage in the system. What I do to prevent this I use a smaller amount of cereal flakes and rice hulls to have a good circulation.

    Thank you guys!

    Best
    AnteK

    • Hey Antek – we actually found no issue with blockage until the hops got introduced! Although the sparge was very slow indeed but worth the wait for that mouthfeel and look.

  9. Total respect for doing a “per litre” recipie! I brew small scale in about 5L batches and finding recipes is a faff; especially when so much is in American gallons (I know I can convert using Beer Smith, but still, effort!)

    • You’re welcome! It’s always been something that has bugged us when homebrewing so when we did our first recipe there was no way we weren’t gonna put it up!

  10. try thehomebrewcompany.co.uk they have Azacca, Pilgrim, El Dorado but not Equinox.. lucklily for me my local supplier has this so 2 orders gets me the full recipe (excluding Oats as it always seems to fuck up my beer) I would love some advice on this

  11. @ Matt I use this
    http://www.brew365.com/mash_sparge_water_calculator.php

    to calculate water for mash/sparge so far so good I am always roughly at my target gravity using it. There are other calculators but I doubt they are much better.

    I also prime my beer with Gyle (wort from the initial brew) I dont want to add sugar to my beer before bottling so I find it an excellent way to get carbonation in the bottle. you can google gyle calculators to figure out the quantity required based on CO2 volumes but I find about 1.5 litres for 18-19 litres beer seems to work. I find the carbonation and head retention is much better this way

  12. Cuestión, I’m trying to formulate a local recipe for myself and golden syrup and treacle aren’t common items. After looking them up online, it seems they are both just lightly golden inverted sugar syrups? Not molasses but maybe something closer to brown sugar in liquid form? Thanks.

    • They are indeed just invert sugars. Honey could replace it but that will add some flavour. Alternatively boil some sugar with citric acid of some sort. Give it a google, easy to do!

  13. Can you please explain the 4th x for dry hopping?

    1 – 50% Fermentation
    1 – 75% Fermentation
    1 – Minimum 24 hours before cold crashing
    1 – …….?

    Also, you guys might want to look at whirlpool hopping calc’s by BrewCiber. It calcs the IBUs to be up to 85 depending on the average temperature.

    Thanks for all good work done on this! Cheers!!!

    • You missed off the hops already in the fermenter when you add the wort! Sorry if it wasn’t clear – it’s one just before the yeast, the at 50%, 75% and cold crashing.

      Not sure about that IBU calculator (not the one we use) but there’s no way it’s 85 IBU. Hops won’t isomerise at all below 79C so will add no noticeable bitterness. THe IBU of this beer is around 35IBU at most – depends on your crop of hops added in the boil.

      Let us know if you give it a go!

    • We usually use brewers friend, but with this one we just trusted the recipe from Gipsy Hill! To be honest we’d never figure our dry hops into any equation because they really don’t add bitterness at all. IBU is kinda misleading sometimes as well – in a sweet beer the perceived IBU might be lower, and in a dark beer might be higher, so it’s only a guide.

  14. Im still a little confused by this and think its down to the ambiguous term “Batch Size”.

    If given a recipe per litre I would calculate that to be the volume of beer I would end up with in the fermenter, in this case probably about 20litres, not total water, 30litres. Have I been doing things wrong for years? Would boil off rates and potential variations in tun dead space not really mess this up?

    I know this isn’t a homebrew forum but while the chats kicking off.

    • Hey man – no worries! The ingredients per litre should be calculated according to the original amount of water (mash+sparge). So if you’re starting with 30l times it by 30. We’ve tested it and even in my hands the beer was beautiful. You might need to make some adjustments as your kit will vary though, you’re totally right.

  15. I’ve never cold crashed, always from primary (add sugar/water) to bottle prime. There seems like there’s gonna be a lot of trub. What’s the crack with cold crashing and do you prime at all for bottling?

    • From primary is fine if you cold crash hard. It should all settle to the bottom leaving a hazy but not bitty beer. A fridge overnight will do the job but 24 hours is better. We primed and aimed for 2.3 CO2. Added the sugar a few hours before bottling so we didn’t upset the sediment

  16. You can get Torrefied Wheat from here: amihopfen.com/Malz/Sonstige-Malze-und-Flocken/Torrefied-Wheat-1kg::820.html also a lot of good hops there. hopfen-der-welt.de and hobbybrauerversand.de has also some 🙂
    Cheers
    Benedikt

  17. Good stuff guys. Thanks for sharing. I’ll be using this as inspiration Tuesday but I don’t have all the gear to recreate. I’ve had drifter I know it’s beautifully hazy is there no Irish moss or clearwort etc at all?

    • None at all! Although make sure you leave most of the hop mass behind. We want everything in suspension, but none of the gunk at the bottom.

  18. I love that! One more question concerning the dry hop if I may. Is it 30g of each hop or 10g of each hop that = 30g…. If it’s the first one I’ll need to go hop shopping again!

    Thanks for your time. The Channel has been incredible the past year or so. Inspiring and entertaining. Much respect to you Johnny and Brad. Cheers guys.

    • Cheers man! It’s 10g of each hop so no need to go shopping again! Let us know how it turns out.

    • Awesome! Not quite finished carbing in the bottle so a little flat still but by the weekend it’s gonna be pillowy, fruity and smooth!

  19. My tip is to keep back about 1.5L of Wort prior to pitching, put it in glass bottle and keep in fridge. When you are about to bottle boil this wort, cool it and mix it in rather than use sugar… I find it gives a better carbonation, the only downside is you dilute a little of the dry hopped beer as the wort wasnt. You can find Gyle priming calculators to tell you how much you will need depending on CO2 volumes

  20. How often did you measure the gravity to work out when it was 50% & 75% fermented…?

    I generally leave my brews for 2-3 weeks in the FV, but I guess the alcohol production is mostly done in the first week?

    • We measured pretty frequently, but it worked out at about 30 hours in, 48 hours in and then we did the cold crash charges after a 10 days. We cold crashed it for 24 hours then bottled and left it for 2 weeks.

  21. Has anyone put together a homebrew standard (for US) 5 gallon recipe for this yet?

    I need a beer to do that much multiplication, and I don’t have one at the moment.

  22. Does it matter if i use liquid wheat malt or dry wheat malt? and what is the OG and FG is should aim for?
    cheers!

    • Hey Max. If you use liquid you won’t be as hazy or pillow-like in feel but otherwise it should be fine. The OG/FG is above but here it is again to save you looking!

      OG: 1.068 | FG: 1.015

    • Not sure I quite get the question, but reduce to below 90C before adding the flavour hops – you could do this by liquoring back or using a coil depending on your gravity.

  23. Heheh, true I’m hard to understand the native Language.
    But what I`m asking u chill to 90c add hops (whirpool) and let it drop for 30 min.
    In the video you only show 79c.

    And Btw Keep Up the God WoRk, Awsome Show.

    • Ah I’m with you! Yeh get the hops in once it’s below 90, then leave to cool for 30mins or until it hits 79. Then start proper cooling.

  24. Love the recipe and the video, many thanks!

    Planning to brew this on my grainfather at the end of the week, but I think I may be misreading the recipe a bit?

    For the 30L version, the grainbill is 10kg? Are you sure you didn’t mean to use bottling volume of 20L or something like that?

    At 10kg, that’s more than the grainfather is supposedly able to handle. Further, at 75% brewhouse efficiency, that’s X OG.

    If I scale the recipe to try to achieve 1.068 at 75% efficiency, I get the following (2/3 of original recipe):

    Pale 3.5kg
    Caragold 400gr
    Oats 1kg
    Wheat 1kg
    Flaked wheat 600gr
    Torrified wheat 200gr

    It’s really confusing, because the receipe is shown in the video as well, just as you typed it out here. But then the grains are summed at the bottom, and the total is 8.55kg.

    Any help clearing this up for me would be very much appreciated, I feel like I’m taking crazy pills! 😀

    Cheers from Barcelona,

    • Hey Magnus…good lord. You’re right and now I’m confused. I’m gonna speak to the brewery to sort it out! Gimme a day or two!

  25. Hey there,

    Are you planning to share more recipes for future brewing ?

    In the same time is there a way to have the recipe for beersmith ?

  26. Hi, love the channel! Planning to do this recipe very soon. I have a couple of questions –

    Did you use rice hulls in the mash with all that wheat to prevent a stuck mash?

    How long did you leave this in the bottle before it hit it’s optimum flavour?

    Many thanks,

    Tom.

  27. Brewed this weekend using something closer to Magnus’ grain quantities not the almost 10kg suggested further up. Bit of a disaster really. What I can only assume was the large quantity of oats and torrified wheat clogged up my HERMs system and clogged up the mash tun.
    After emptying the entire mash out into a bucket and back I finally got 23l of 1.060 wort into the fermenter.
    Observation – Mash liquor was THICK like soup.
    Advice – Use a higher water to grain ratio than standard to try and keep things moving.

    Hope this helps anyone else who tries this recipe.

    • Hey Matt – sorry to hear that. We found the sparge absurdly slow but we managed to make the litres up back liquoring back as we got so much sugar out of it. Our consistency was fine though! Seems you got a stuck mash – if that’s the case it could be over-milled grain or that you sparged too fast which can clog it up.

  28. This will be my next brew! I have one fermenting in primary right now but once it’s out of the carboy I’m making this!

  29. Surely you didn’t bottle the dead yeast to make it “soft and pillowy”?? I’m also a bit surprised by the time the hops reside on the fermenter – I get grassy and vegetal flavours from dryhops that stay in the fermenter over ten days. How did this turn out? I do get the point of dryhopping in stages where fermentation is still active.. but to leave the hops to the fermenter? Sounds risky..

    • Hey! We cold crashed to take out as much sediment and yeast as possible but otherwise the beer is totally unfiltered and needed some yeast to bottle ferment. We experienced no vegetable flavours at all, and nor have Gipsy Hill brewing on their big kit. if the fermentation is well controlled I’m not sure you should get any.

  30. Just looking at the numbers again and surely the grain bill must be too high, to only get 1.066 out of about 9kg of grain is like 40% efficiency which is shocking, considering you were using Grainfather. I think your numbers are wrong. with over 9kg grain I would expect about 1.117 roughly

  31. I find it hard to get the IBU to around 35 using Beersmith. I’ve scaled the recipe to a 35 liter batch size to fill two corny kegs, and I’ve added all the dryhops which of course adds 0 IBU’s. I’ve added all the boil hops, except from the Pilgrim, as “whirlpool/steeping hops” at 0 minutes, which also gives me 0 IBU’s. The Pilgrim hops I have put in as FWH, which gives me about 15 IBU’s or something (my Pilgrim are 8,1% alpha) when I calculate the amount using 0,3 grams pr. liter (I’ll be using a total of 65,6 liters of water). To get 35 IBU’s in this beer I have to throw in just over 75 grams of Pilgrim 8,1%. Am I all in the wrong here, or what?

    • Hey! I wouldn’t worry too much! It may be that the hops we’ve used have much higher alpha content (I can check as 8% for pilgrim seems pretty low) but the bitterness should be almost invisible in this recipe anyway. There will be some isomerization of the hops thrown in after flameout, so that accounts for a slightly higher reading too. if you’re worried the bitterness won’t show you could put the hops in at flameout rather than allowing it to cool so far?

  32. I could do that, but wouldn’t that perhaps kill a bit of the aroma of those hops?
    As I see it, I have two choices here: I could a) adjust the amount of Pilgrim so that I get 35 IBU’s in Beersmith – that’ll be adjust it up to 75 grams, or b) just go for the “per litre”-recipe, and use about 19,5 grams – which Beersmith tells me will get my beer to 8,8 IBU – which seems way too low even for this brew. What would you do?

    • Well the recipe should be correct – couple of other things to check (though I’m sure you have) like if you’re calculating for hops or pellets, if it accounts for the end hops being there during 30mins of sitting as well as cooling time, and the IBU of all your hops. If you’re still not convinced I’d add the aroma hops earlier because you’re still gonna get HUGE aroma from hopping during fermentation.

  33. Agreed. 9kg in 30L total water is terrible efficiency. To get an OG of 1.068, I would need scale the bill down by ~30% to avoid overshooting.

  34. Any updated info on this? I converted this over to standard measurements and I’m looking at roughly a 22lb grain bill with a 75% efficiency putting my OG above 1.120. Definitely don’t want to do that! Plus 22lbs of grain in 4.5 gallons of water for the mash sounds like it would be closer to a think oatmeal than a wort mash. haha

    • Well I would say that when we did it we did liquor back (as in the video) because the sparge gets very sticky but that’s just part of the trickiness with this style!

      I’m speaking to the brewer and he’s looking at the two different mashes…definitely something not quite right. Will report back asap.

  35. Thanks Jonny! After looking at it more I’m thinking the grain bill may of somehow got doubled. Because after I cut the whole thing in half I got almost spot on to the stated OG and got an OG of 1.067 and an estimated FG of 1.016. But I’ll wait and see what info you come back with!

  36. Thanks for the recipe, and I’m totally going to brew one this winter.
    One question though, is there a way to turn the color a bit lighter? I thought the NE style is more towards an orange juice color…
    Anyway, cheers!!

  37. Brewed a 5G batch of this a couple of weeks ago and it was a hit! Used target instead of pilgrim as they weren’t available, and same for caramunich II for caragold. The corny keg was empty in a week. Just brewed it again lastnight with some tweaks compared to my first batch. Got caragold this time, used Maris otter for the base instead of Canadian 2 row, and 1318 yeast instead of Vermont ale yeast. Can’t wait to compare! Thanks for the awesome recipe!

    • Awesome! Glad to hear it was a hit! Ours worked out great too – though it went very yeasty after about 4 weeks so going to look into tips on keeping it fresher for longer. Let us know how v2 comes out!

  38. I have a few questions and a few head scratches, trying this recipe right now. I scaled back to 25L start off by multiplying the 1L guide. So much grain. It’s insane. It works out to 72% of base only, but I assume that’s the idea to get the mouthfeel. What is the intended ABV mine looks high around 8.5%? But most worryingly the IBU’s I’m calculating is a derisory 17 IBU even with all the rest added after flame out, just saying cause for the price of this beer I don’t want to have it ruined. Ain’t enough Alpha acids in the boil to get it bitter. Anyway I’m assuming that for your 30L brew you are not using leaf but pellet hops and no hop bags? And should I use protofloc or not? Thanks for the insights. Good show as well guys keep it the good work.

    • Hey! We’ve had some questions about the IBU and when we went back to the brewer he said to trust us. However, if you want a bit more assertiveness by all means up the pilgrim! I would not go over 30 IBU for this style of beer though. As for the ABV if you reach the gravity to achieve 8.5% I’d be very impressed with your mash! We did get a bit more efficiency so we liquored back as we say in the recipe to get the right gravity.

      No need for protofloc, just make sure you cold crash it hard and for as long as you dare (we did 24 hours but really it needs longer – 3 days even).

  39. Hi Jonny and crew.
    I went ahead with the brew pretty much as described except for a few changes I had no El Dorado so used Citra, and Enigma. I did however add 15g of Cardinal 9.2%AA, across the last 7 minutes. To top up the bitterness I just couldn’t bring myself to stick to the program, although I do believe it would have been grand by the book. I did however have a blowup in the fermentation I guess it was too hot but it didn’t suffer to bad more hops in and an overnight cold crash b4 bottling. I have done a similar beer twice before, the first one was a roaring success because I used 400g of hops in the cool down, but my second attempt was a disaster even though I added 250g so when I seen the hop schedule I decided to err on the safe. Anyway the results I got was superb. A massive beer and a real crowd pleaser. It was the grain bill that was superior to my own previous versions. Top job it’s been tasty fun and thanks for the learning curve.

  40. Hi again,
    Soz just to point out as I forgot, the 8.5% calculation I was getting was via Brewer’s friend recipe calculator for a 30L, but I did adjust a few settings before starting. I use it a lot even though it can be out with even just a tiny adjustment of my boil off rate. Anyway I targeted and ended up with a 6.6% abv just the way I like it, when I rescaled at 25L. So I’ll be trying a second variation next week. Can’t wait

  41. Hello from Nova Scotia, Canada! I brewed this beer yesterday in our first snowstorm of the year. I made some adjustments in ingredients based on what is readily available here but stuck with the fruitiest hops I could including citra, Amarillo, sorachi ace and wataku. I wasn’t too concerned about efficiency or hitting exact gravities so I basically filled my brew kettle and ended up with a wort that should give me a beer between 5.5 and 5.8 ABV. I’m excited to see how this turns out. If it tastes anywhere near as good as yours looks I’ll be happy!

    • What a story! Brewing in a snow storm?! We’d totally make a film about that one. Let us know how the beer turns out! Interested to see how sorachi ace turns out.

  42. Well if you ever make it to the East Coast of Canada look me up! Though I recommend a summer trip. The Nova Scotia craft beer scene is on fire right now! As for my beer, which I’m calling The Grifter, It turned out beautifully. It came in at about 5.8% ABV and is very hazy, very juicy, very very hoppy. I cold crashed it for 24 hours and just put it in a keg yesterday. It’s still a bit of a hop salad but should settle down a bit after a couple days in the keg. It’s very much like you guys described, juicy and smooth and I’m very happy with it. The Sorachi Ace adds a nice bit of lemon and adds to the overall citrusy aroma and flavor. When I do this recipe again I would consider adding some grapefruit juice to the keg. Keep up the great work! I love the channel!

  43. On my third short batch of this recipe and its a great bill to do straight or play with… first 8.5ltrs were as recipe and was murky and delicious in equal measures. Second batch I kept the grain bill the same but bittered with Comet and aroma hopped with citra, mosaic and chinook – it got drunk very quick! For my latest 8.5ltrs I’ve swapped the M. Otter for a run of the mill larger malt and I’ve upped the quantities of all the wheat in the bill… bittered with Nelson S. and have been dry hopping with a mother load of Motueka and Wai-iti. When its done it’ll be lower on the ABV but its already a citrusy crisp gooseberry soup and will be delicious chilled!

    • Love the sound of that second batch! great to hear you’re taking the recipe on further. Too busy to homebrew at the moment but we’ll be back in the game soon and have some new recipes up here.

  44. what if i am unable to cold crash? are there any consequences? or any alternative methods?

    • If you can’t cold crash with this style it’s a bit of an issue! There is a lot of hop in the fermentor and you need to avoid it going in the bottle. You could use whole cone in (very clean) hop socks, or find a way to filter before the bottle.

  45. Hi Jonny,
    I suppose you could rack into secondary, leaving some debry behind, then prime and cold crash for 24h and then bottle? cheers

  46. So you finished with 5US Gallons? I’m terrible at conversion but is the 30L recipe scaled to 5gal US then?

  47. Otherwise try to trick your friend who doesn’t like IPA into tasting one if they end up nodding their head in approval, you’ve helped convert someone new to the wonderful world of natural hop flavoring and done so with a very historically significant IPA!

  48. Oh shit! I just dry hopped first pitch with 90g and then 50% fermented with 90g! This is going to be a beast!

    Will go for 30g each for 75% and pre-cold crash lol.

  49. Hi just wondering – i usually transfer to bottling bucket (where I’ve already put priming solution) and then bottle from there – could I just cold crash before transferring to the bottling bucket or is there a better way? Cheers

    • I’d cold crash then transfer to the bottling bucket for sure.

  50. Had a go at this recipe this weekend – I chose this as my first go at all grain brewing. Was good fun but the 50% oat/wheat grain bill did cause me to have a stuck mash and blockages trying to get it in to the FV. Because of this i have ended up with an immense amount of trub in the FV and probably only about 15 litres for bottling – not bothered about this though.
    Looking forward to seeing how this turns out.

    Thanks for putting the recipe up and answering the questions from others – very useful.

    Have a look here for a my brewday/night-

    https://www.instagram.com/p/BU7DZEFAMrH/?taken-by=dan_beerbody&hl=en

    cheers Dan

  51. Hi Jonny, a couple of questions if you have a minute….. do you add any brewing sugars/carb-drops for carbonation conditioning before bottling? and as soon as it hits the right FG do you begin the cold crash? Im nervous that the amount of hops will make it grassy so want to get it to bottle ASAP

    Cheers!!

    • Yeah keep an eye on it and crash asap once it’s hit fg. We added priming sugar slightly under classic ipa range to keep it soft.

  52. I also had a crack at this bad boy and just enjoying the fruits of my labours as I type this – it’s well worth it! So here’s how I did it – hopefully will be useful information in here for others. I have a pretty standard all grain system, everything is separate: HLT, mash tun (converted cool box) and boil kettle. I fly sparge with the help of an foil turkey roasting tray with hole in it! For cooling I use an immersion chiller. I have stainless FVs which sit in fridges converted into fermentation chambers allowing me to keep a consistent temp and cold crash.

    I have had my water supply analysed and I used ‘Bru’n Water’ to dial in the following overall finished water profile (all ppm / mg/l). Note the resulting sulphate to chloride ratio here which should suit this style (according to what I’ve read anyway!):
    Calcium: 86
    Magnesium: 4
    Sodium: 12
    Sulphate: 62
    Chloride: 151
    Bicarbonate: 0

    I used beersmith to work up the recipe for a 45 litre batch on my equipment which has the following key parameters:
    2L Mash Tun Water Addition to compensate for recoverable space under the mash screen
    4L lost over a 60 minute boil
    4L loss to trub and chiller

    Grain Bill (slightly adapted from the original recipe)
    0.4 kg Melanoiden
    0.4 kg Torrified Wheat
    1.1 kg Flaked Wheat
    2.0 kg Flaked Oats
    2.0 kg Wheat Malt
    6.0 kg Maris Otter Pale
    1.5 kg Golden Promise (only because I used the last of the Maris Otter!)
    A whole 600g bottle of Lyles Golden Syrup – in for a penny in for a pound – added at start of boil

    Boil Hops
    20g Pilgrim 60 mins
    120g El Dorado for the 30 min steep
    80g Azacca for the 30 min steep
    60g Equinox for the 30 min steep

    Dry Hops 1st Charge (added at the same time as the yeast)
    30g Azacca
    20g El Dorado
    20g Equinox

    Dry Hops 2nd Charge (after about 48 hours)
    30g Azacca
    20g El Dorado
    20g Equinox

    Dry Hops 3rd Charge (after about 72 hours)
    30g Azacca
    20g El Dorado
    20g Simcoe (I ran out of Equinox!)

    Dry Hops 4th Charge (after about 10 days)
    30g Azacca
    20g El Dorado
    20g Simcoe

    After adding the final charge I dialled down the temps on my fridges to 5C which is about as low as they can go and left for a further three days before transferring to corny kegs. It’s been in the kegs about 6 days now under 15 psi at 6C and is delicious!

    Oh the yeast was London Ale (White Labs WLP013) and I added servomyces yeast nutrient to the boil @ 10 mins.

    Mistakes: well I used some leaf hops for dry hopping. Next time it will be all pellets as they wet easier rather than float and I should get better flavour/aroma extraction.

    It was a thick mash to say the least but it sparged through ok. The final colour and haze in the beer is spot on.

    Other comments: beersmith does over calculate the bitterness – just ignore it!

    My numbers:
    measured mash pH: 5.5
    mash temp: 67C
    OG: 1.071
    Efficiency was 76%
    FG: 1.015
    abv: 7.4%

    cheers all 🙂

  53. Love The Craft Beer Channel and all things beer! Thank you for all you do and post, it’s truly amazing!!! I came across this recipe\video series when researching New England IPA or East Coast IPA for homebrew after having a local version (Juice is Loose) from Transient Artisan Ales in Bridgman, MI. I have to say I probably viewed your video’s a dozen times or more to get “comfy” with the recipe and procedures involved as I have never added hops straight into the fermenter before. So, after about 6 months of researching and planning, I decided to give this a go based mainly on your recipe and procedure. Thanks to my LHBS and the grace of Amazon.com, I was able to get all the necessary ingredients, including Lyle’s Golden Syrup and Treacle. I substituted Maris Otter for Golden Promise only because my LHBS was out of Maris at the time and I added a 4th hop (Citra) to the charges. I just brewed a 10 gallon batch on Saturday 9/9/17 and I just put in the 2nd of the 4 hop charges. Of course I got a good whiff when I opened the fermenters and they smell absolutely fantastic!! I will update as the process progresses and will let you know how it turns out. Again, thank you for all your information and for making craft beer fun and exciting!! -Prost!!

  54. Jonny,

    WOW!! Ok, so I followed the schedule as you laid out. It turns out my fermentation was about on par with yours. It ended up at 7% ABV. I just kegged this over the weekend after a 36 hour cold crash and tapped it last night. OMG!!….the color is a danky golden orange, it’s hazy like a wheat beer, and the aroma is amazing!! Since the beer is roughly 17 days old, there’s still a bit of astringency and I am hoping this will subside in the upcoming week/weeks. I taste tested several times during the process and, to me, the astringency is reducing. So, in your experience, how long does this style take to reach its peak (4-6 weeks)? I’ll re-post again after your suggestion. Again, The Craft Beer Channel ROCKS!!

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